Interview by Chris Tiessen; Photos by Chris Tiessen (unless otherwise noted)
Long before ‘clean beauty’ became a global marketing mantra, Cocoon Apothecary was quietly perfecting plant-based skincare in a basement lab in Waterloo Region. What began as a farmers’ market experiment – hand-blended creams sold at early-morning stalls – has grown into an internationally-distributed brand and a full-service spa in downtown Kitchener. Despite this growth, the company remains rooted in the same philosophy: thoughtful botanical formulations, sustainable practices, and skincare designed to work with nature rather than against it. In February, TOQUE sat down with Cocoon founder Jessica Burman to chat about it all:
ORIGINS
Cocoon Apothecary began long before ‘clean beauty’ was a thing. What drew you to botanical skincare? It started with a personal wake-up call. My stepfather and our dog were diagnosed with the same cancer, linked to pesticide exposure. Until then, I’d trusted that products were safe. My mother began buying natural creams from health-food stores, and soon I noticed something remarkable – her skin glowed. It felt like a hidden beauty secret. That’s when I realized natural products weren’t just safer – they actually worked. This insight became the seed for Cocoon Apothecary.
The company began with you blending formulas in a basement lab and selling them at farmers’ markets. What do you remember most about those days? Mostly early mornings and a lot of optimism. I’d drive to the Fergus Market on weekends, wondering whether this small idea could eventually support me. Some Saturdays meant arriving at the St Jacobs Market at six in the morning to secure a good booth. There was also a period when I shared a spot at the Guelph Farmers’ Market with a friend who sold jewelry – learning from her as she built lasting relationships with customers. Over time, the Kitchener Market became especially meaningful: it’s where I developed a loyal following. Customers returned week after week with feedback that helped shape the earliest versions of our products.
CRAFT & FORMULATION
When you begin developing a new product, where does the idea usually start? Most of our skincare formulas began with my own skin journey. Early on it was about acne. As I moved through my thirties, forties, and now my fifties, the focus shifted toward aging and maintaining healthy skin. In many ways my skin has been our products’ long-term testing ground. I live in the same climate as many of our customers and deal with the same seasonal challenges, which helps me understand what people actually need.
Our bath and body products are aromatherapy-driven. Scent becomes the starting point, and we choose plant oils that support both the sensory experience and the moisturizing benefits.
What does the Cocoon product range look like today? Our line includes skincare, bath and body products, men’s grooming, and fragrance. We’re also expanding into professional spa products designed for treatments like facials, manicures, and pedicures.
Any unexpected successes along the way? Yes – our ‘Malechemy Styling Pomade.’ Years ago an influencer featured it in a video that went viral, which created a steady stream of sales that continues today.
Are there particular formulas that feel foundational to the brand? Our ‘Rosey Cheeks Facial Cream’ has been a cornerstone since 2006 and remains our bestseller. It grew out of frustration with expensive department-store creams that promised dramatic results but rarely delivered. I wanted something soothing and nourishing – rich enough to comfort the skin but without the heavy, greasy finish many creams leave behind. Once people try it, they tend to stick with it.
BUILDING THE BRAND
Cocoon has grown from a local startup into an internationally-distributed brand. Where are the products available today? Outside of Canada we currently distribute in the United States and China, with plans to expand into the European Union. International regulation has been one of our biggest challenges. China historically requires animal testing for imported cosmetics, and because we oppose this we’ve had to find alternative ways to participate in that market. In the States, recent tariffs have created another hurdle. Certain packaging components – specifically parts of our pumps – are classified as aluminum and steel, which subjects them to tariffs as high as 250 percent.
You’ve kept manufacturing local and relatively small-scale. What are the advantages of staying independent? Being small gives us freedom. We aren’t pressured to chase every trending ingredient simply because the market demands it. Instead, we focus on formulations that genuinely work and align with our values – even if this means choosing ingredients that are more expensive or more challenging to source. Our relatively small size also allows us to move quickly. During the early days of the pandemic, for example, we developed and launched a hand sanitizer within a few months. We’re also able to pursue initiatives like Ecocert Organic & Natural certification, as well as a bottle-return program – efforts that would be much harder for a large company to implement.
SUSTAINABILITY & PHILOSOPHY
Cocoon embraced sustainability long before it became a buzzword. Why has that always been central to the brand? My husband [and Cocoon General Manager] Lane and I grew up hearing about environmental crises like acid rain and the ozone hole. These issues shaped how we continue to think about business. The skincare industry has a significant environmental footprint because its products are used every day. Packaging waste and ingredient sourcing matter. From the beginning, our goal was to create skincare that is both beautiful and effective without contributing unnecessarily to environmental distress.
How has the clean beauty conversation changed over the years? The landscape shifts constantly. At one point the focus was strongly on vegan products; now there’s renewed interest in animal-derived ingredients like beef tallow. Consumers today have access to enormous amounts of information and often develop their own priorities. For us the most sustainable approach has been to focus on efficacy. If a product works beautifully and is responsibly produced, sustainability becomes a natural extension rather than a marketing slogan.
THE SPA
After two decades focused on products, you opened Cocoon Spathecary in downtown Kitchener. What inspired this move? Opening a spa was always part of the vision. A facial with a knowledgeable esthetician is the best way to demonstrate what our products can do. Our skincare philosophy differs somewhat from conventional beauty routines, and it requires more education than a bottle on a shelf can provide. The spa allows us to connect with clients more deeply and guide them through the experience.
What services does the spa offer – and who tends to become a regular? We offer facials, massage, body treatments, manicures, pedicures, and hair removal – all using products made just around the corner at our headquarters. Many of our regular clients are women seeking a luxurious, restorative experience rather than a quick cosmetic fix. They often have sensitive skin and prefer natural skincare approaches over procedures like Botox or fillers.
What’s it like being located in downtown Kitchener? The neighbourhood has become increasingly vibrant, with excellent restaurants and new condos bringing more energy and foot traffic to the area. Parking remains the biggest challenge. We validate parking at City Hall, but making sure people know that ahead of time is an ongoing effort.
THE QUICK ROUND
Three botanical ingredients you’d never give up: Rosehip oil, shea butter, and aloe.
A ritual you never skip: Skincare – it’s as routine as brushing my teeth.
Looking back, what does the journey mean to you: When I imagined growing the business years ago, I felt both excitement and anxiety about the challenges ahead. What I didn’t realize was how much I would grow alongside it. Over time you gain confidence. Problems that once felt overwhelming become manageable. Looking ahead, I hope to expand further into the spa world and create more dedicated Cocoon experiences – spaces where people can slow down and truly care for themselves.
COCOON APOTHECARY SKIN CARE 72 St Leger St, Kitchener cocoonapothecary.com
