GOOD TASTE IN HAMILTON: THE RESTAURANTS OF EQUAL PARTS HOSPITALITY
WORDS & PHOTOS BY CHRIS TIESSEN
‘So, is there something you enjoyed in particular?’, Chef John Forcier (Director of Culinary Operations at Equal Parts Hospitality) asks us once my TOQUE partner Cai and I have had a chance to sample everything spread out before us on a weighty table at the Aberdeen Tavern – a former-bank-turned-posh-eatery located at the foot of Hamilton Mountain.
With little hesitation, I answer exuberantly: ‘It’s got to be the braised duck grilled cheese.’ Cai – still savouring a last bite of the decadent sandwich – nods in agreement. Braised duck. Cabernet cheddar. Red wine-onion jam. Arugula. Mustard mayo. Packed between two slices of perfectly-toasted marble rye. A stand- out among stand-outs. ‘I’m not surprised,’ Chef chuckles, ‘it’s actually become a staple at the Tavern. And it represents so much of what we strive to do across all our restaurants: prepare food that is both expertly executed and elevated yet easy to appreciate, with an emphasis on quality local ingredients.’ And Chef does mean local.
Take the duck, for instance, which makes an appearance on at least a few dishes at the Tavern (as well as on the menus at the French – another Equal Parts culinary gem). ‘They’re actually brought in by our own Chef de Cuisine, Marco Battaglia,’ Chef John tells us, ‘who – when he’s not working in the kitchen – raises ducks on his Burlington property, Folia Farms.’ Very local, then. And the rye is from Hamilton’s Genuine Bakery. And the cheese is from the Udderway Artisan Cheese Co (in Hannon, ON). And the list goes on. ‘We use fifteen unique food suppliers in our restaurants,’ Chef John says as I pop the last morsel of grilled cheese into my mouth. He adds: ‘We are constantly collaborating with local and regional food producers to ensure that our dishes are both fresh and flavourful.’ Like the tender ‘10oz Pork Chop’ that features (alongside pickled grapes, crispy prosciutto, potato, radish, frisee) fresh asparagus from Welsh Bros in Scotland ON.
Or the creamy ‘Corn Risotto’ that foregrounds sweet corn from this same Ontario producer – corn charred and accented with maitake, popcorn, and parmesan. But I digress.
It’s a Tuesday, early afternoon, sometime in the first weeks of June, and Cai and I have driven into Hamilton at the invitation of Jerrett Young, Founder & CEO of Equal Parts Hospitality. Our objective: to enjoy quality time at three of Equal Parts’ fantastic culinary establishments, and (between meals) to rest our heads for the night at a rather unique hotel. The restaurants: The French – a hip bistro featuring an open kitchen, wraparound marble bar, and Parisian-inspired patio; The Diplomat – a globally-inspired restaurant and event space with open concept industrial vibes; and, of course, the aforementioned Aberdeen Tavern – a classically-sophisticated destination that’s a sea of dark wood, button-tucked leather banquettes, and romantic tableside lighting. The distinctive alternative hotel, with its cheeky name, The Laundry Rooms, is a clean modern space whose forty handsome condominium- style suites (replete with full kitchens, multiple bedrooms, exposed concrete ceilings, and expansive balconies) combine the best aspects of Airbnb with more traditional accommodations.
It is a treat to begin this Steeltown adventure with lunch at the Aberdeen Tavern: a sumptuous affair. The place radiates old world charm. The wood finishes. Brass details. Classical columns. You could fill in other features of the evocative tableau: the rack of antlers hanging above a central fireplace, long curtains framing floor-to-ceiling windows, Frank Sinatra’s voice an expressive aural backdrop. Even the place’s crest (enterprises this swanky don’t have mere ‘logos’) – imprinted on the front windows – hearkens back to a time when families had insignia.
And yet, somehow, there’s nothing stuffy about the place. The staff are upbeat. The patrons are unpretentiously stylish. And the food – relentlessly tasty – is comfortable and warmly appealing. Like the grilled cheese. And burger Tuesdays. Even steakhouse Sundays are a laidback affair. As Equal Parts Director of Operations Irene Stoukas notes: ‘Sundays at the Tavern are congenial affairs – the staff are loose, the steaks come with sides [no six dollar baked potato add-ons], and the atmosphere is celebratory.’ My kind of party.
Once we’ve lavishly sampled most of what Chef Marco’s kitchen sends our way (keeping in mind that we have to save room for what’s to come throughout the rest of the day), Cai and I manage to roll our way to our accommodations: The Laundry Rooms. We use our online ‘passport’ to access our twenty- four-hour code that allows us into the swank multi-storey building at 18 Augusta Street. As we pass through the lobby, we take note of ‘Plank’ – a whimsically-appointed resto bar with access through the lobby – and remark on the sweet décor of the space. The arched entrance. Black-and-white-striped tile floors. Chromed clothespin-style light fixtures (a smart nod to the ‘laundry room’ theme).
Skateboard decks mounted to the walls as art pieces. We take the elevator to the third floor, find our suite, and are greeted by a brilliant abode: an airy, two-bedroom space with full kitchen, wonderfully-appointed living room (including slick Marshall Bluetooth speaker – a nice touch), floor-to-ceiling windows, and massive balcony. The perfect space to serve as ‘home base’ during our stay.
For the next couple hours, Cai and I lounge in our swanky digs. And then it’s off to our next stop on the day’s itinerary: The Diplomat for pre-dinner cocktails. We decide to walk from The Laundry Rooms to the restaurant and event space – a short jaunt along James St S that has us enjoying the sights and sounds of Steeltown. Within a few minutes we turn off James and onto the King William St strip (a sea of posh culinary establishments), pass by the foliaged patio outside The French (where we’ll enjoy dinner in a couple hours), and arrive at The Diplomat. The dissimilarity between this Equal Parts establishment and the Aberdeen Tavern is immediately evident. The Diplomat’s open concept space – with its soaring ceilings, exposed brick walls, and wide plank wood flooring – emanates a factory-chic energy. Whimsical pieces of art – including a large portrait of a giraffe in Napolean-esque riding coat – dot the walls, while elegant gold chandeliers and light fixtures punctuate the interior landscape. A central bar – all glass and marble and gorgeous – breaks up the room. The whole place feels playful, lively, high- spirited.
We’re greeted at the host desk by The Diplomat AGM Aaron who seats us at a table overlooking the hip space. Within a few minutes Aaron has us set up with a few cocktails to sample: a negroni with truffle oil and parmesan, a smoked old-fashioned, and a clarified cocktail in which milk is added to the ingredients (including fresh fruit), allowed to curdle, and then strained through a cheese cloth – resulting in the cleanest, most flavourful potion. ‘It’s potent,’ Aaron notes of the clarified drink, ‘so I suggest you take your time with it.’ Cai and I oblige, enjoying sips of each cocktail over time. It’s not long before Chef John (whom we’ve embraced as our consummate host) joins us at our table and lets us know that while we are indeed at The Diplomat for pre-dinner drinks, he wants us also to enjoy just a little bit of food from the menu too.
‘The Diplomat is all about creative cocktails and shared plates,’ Chef tells us, adding: ‘The menu here is less formal than at our other restaurants, and puts an emphasis on global comfort food.’ Before long our table is laden with the most delectable dishes crafted by The Diplomat’s Chef de Cuisine Brandon Raab and his fantastic team: ‘Pepper-crusted Beef Carpaccio’ (parmesan mousse, pickled relish, sunchoke chips); ‘Greek Nachos’ (wonton chips, mozzarella, dill, kalamata, onion, feta, jalapeno, cucumber); ‘Beef Bulgogi Lettuce Wraps’ (kimchi, siracha mayo, scallion); ‘Fried Halloumi’ (labneh, confit tomatoes, pistachios, za’atar spice); ‘Spiced Cauliflower’ (chickpea puree, cucumber, onion, pickled turnip, green tahini, sesame, coriander); and a ‘Roasted Salmon’ dish (herbed spatzle, aguachile, radish). Not just a little bit of food, then – and quite the international culinary adventure.
‘Save some room for dinner,’ I joke to Cai as she loads up another lettuce wrap and I clean off the last remnants of carpaccio. My favourites: the carpaccio, and halloumi, and salmon too. And the cocktails: spectacular. Although both of us know that we really should keep what’s left of our appetites for The French (where we’re due in just a few minutes), it’s hard not to keep eating the dishes here at The Diplomat. ‘But for real,’ Cai urges me, ‘I think we should take a bit of a moratorium on food before we settle into dinner.’ I oblige, and soon we bid Aaron and The Diplomat staff adieu and stroll the few dozen metres back down King William (towards James) for the main event at The French.
If you’ve never been to The French in Hamilton (which will welcome, later this summer, a sister location at The Gaslight District in Cambridge) it should be on your list of regional foodie spots. From its lovely front patio (protected from the street by trim shrubs and appointed with wicker bistro chairs and smart marble- topped tables) to its posh interior (including exposed stone walls, a long wraparound bar, and open kitchen) the place feels both upscale and comfortable. As Cai and I are led to our seats – a sort of ‘chef’s counter’ that overlooks the action in the open kitchen – we spot none other than Chef John, in the kitchen, ready to lead the line alongside The French’s Chef de Cuisine, Chris Pyatt. And for the next three hours or so, we’re presented with the most fantastic meal.
Our first course features a ‘Mushroom Onion Tart’ (soubise, pickled ramp, arugula) and ‘Ontario Venison Tartar’ (evergreen cure, burnt shallot, cured egg yolk, mustard, pickled asparagus, potato chips). The complex flavours of the mushroom tart (rich, earthy, pungent almost) are simply fantastic, but it’s the venison that steals my heart. ‘It’s about as much of Ontario as we can fit on a plate,’ Chef John laughs as he sets the dish in front of us. The evergreen cure, crafted from pine and fir needles. The fresh asparagus – again, from Welsh Bros. The venison. We pair these dishes with a pint of Fairweather’s High Grade IPA (for Cai) and a negroni (for me).
Then we sample four exquisite mains: the ‘Ricotta Gnocchi’ (mushroom, truffle, parmesan, parsley, breadcrumb), ‘Steak-Frites’ (café de Paris, garlic aioli), ‘Roasted Scallops’ (saffron-white bean agnolotti, prosciutto, peas, tomato, parsley, garlic scape butter), and ‘Duck Breast’ (cauliflower puree, black garlic, potato croquette, braised leek, peas, cherry jus). ‘The gnocchi and steak,’ Chef John tells us, ‘have been staples here since the first day we opened almost a decade ago.’ And for good reason. They’re delectable. ‘And you might recognize the duck,’ Chef John continues: ‘It’s from Folia Farms.’ Like what we enjoyed at the Tavern, then. The dish is fantastic. Composed. Timeless. But for me, now, it’s the scallops that steal the show. Served on a bed of the most delicate saffron-white bean agnolotti, these jewels of the sea melt in my mouth. And will certainly have me coming back to The French again and again. Either here, in Hamilton, or at the restaurant’s soon-to-open Cambridge location.
For dessert, Cai and I share a ‘Deep-dish Lemon Tart’ with crisp meringue and blueberry, and each enjoy a strong espresso. And then it’s time for bed. We meander back along James St S to The Laundry Rooms, regaling each other with memories of the day’s extraordinary adventure. At Aberdeen Tavern. And The Diplomat. And The French too. When we arrive back at The Laundry Rooms it takes little effort for either of us to fall fast asleep – with dreams of duck and venison dancing in our heads.
The next morning we spend some time relaxing at The Laundry Rooms before leaving Hamilton for Guelph. But not before another meal at The French (for real), where we share the ‘Falafel’ (pickled turnip, cucumber-tomato relish, tahini, coriander) accompanied by (Cai) a ‘Bibb Lettuce Salad’ (fines herbes, pickled shallot, brown-butter crouton, radish, tarragon vinaigrette) and (me) the ‘Chicken Cobb Salad’ (greens, avocado, tomato, cucumber, egg, lardon, Krüger Blue, crouton, rouille vinaigrette). What can I say: we just can’t get enough.